In the world of winemaking, where each grape cluster carries the potential for transformation, there exists a technique that has been quietly shaping the flavors and aromas of some of the most exceptional wines. It’s a technique that involves treating the grape clusters as more than just repositories of juice, but rather as vessels of complexity, nuance, and character. Welcome to the fascinating realm of whole cluster pressing – a process that transcends conventional winemaking practices and opens a door to a world of flavors waiting to be discovered. In this blog, we embark on a journey to explore the art, science, and allure of whole cluster pressing, unearthing its history, techniques, and the profound impact it can have on the final elixir that fills our glasses.
When it comes to winemaking, there are two different methods to harvesting and overall getting the grapes ready for the fermentation stage. The methods are whole cluster and destemming.
Whole cluster pressing is when the grapes are fermented together with their stems. These grape bunches are typically harvested by hand. Destemming is when the grapes are processed without their stems. These bunches can be harvested by machine or will go through a destemmer when back at the winery. At Aurora Cellars, our grapes are usually harvested by hand.
The whole cluster practice is considered to be an old-world practice. Including the stem is popular among producers who value refinement and a sense of adventure in their wines.
Wine Enthusiast explains that before crusher-destemmers were invented in the 20th Century, almost all red wines that were consumed were fermented with their stems. Most red wines today are made with destemmed grapes. But, fermenting whole bunches can be used as a stylistic tool in winemaking.
Fermenting with the stems helps give the wine more complexity by weaving in spicy and herbal flavors. It also adds candied and airy fruit notes, helps the tannin structure and smooth out any high acidity, explains Wine Folly. Apart from the green and herbal notes, keeping the stems allows a whole range of aromatic and textural qualities into wines.
Aurora Cellars Head Winemaker Drew Perry explains that choosing which practice to use when producing a specific wine ultimately comes down to the goals the winemaking team is trying to obtain with the qualities in the juice. The practice of whole cluster pressing provides a gentle extraction and cleaner juice with reduced bitter astringent compounds. Perry explains this can be crucial when it comes to making bases for our sparkling wines as they are generally harvested earlier and can be naturally acidic.
“With destemming and crushing, we are getting deeper extraction, increased juice yields, and skin contact which can be beneficial toward aromatic development,” explains Perry. “It must be balanced with its effect on the pallet in order to [get] the resulting wine you are looking for.”
In the end, both methods play important roles when it comes to the final product and are all about the wine style goals trying to be achieved.
Varieties That Benefit
There are so many different varieties of grapes but which ones benefit from the whole cluster fermentation practice? Let’s take a look!
Pinot Noir
Typically, Pinot Noir produces very light and delicate wines. But, if you want to intensify the structure and age-ability, you wouldn’t be wrong in fermenting whole clusters when producing it. Whole cluster fermentation is more commonly used in Pinot Noir from Burgundy, France where the producers are looking to keep traditional customs that have been practiced for thousands of years. The pivoting away from whole cluster fermentation started in the 1970s by Henri Jayer, but slowly the practice is coming back in both the Old World and New World.
Syrah
Syrah wines produce massive fruit flavors but this varietal can also be known for complex notes of peppery spice and savoriness – especially if it is grown in cool climates. You will find the technique of whole cluster fermentation being used when producing Syrah used widely in the Northern Rhône Valley just south of Burgundy. Whole cluster fermentation can enhance the spice character of Syrah wines.
Gamay
Just like Pinot Noir, gamay tends to be light but with a more rustic profile with bitterness and acidity. Due to this flavor profile, Gamay traditionally goes through carbonic maceration, where whole clusters go into a tank sealed with carbon dioxide. When using this practice, the fermentation starts inside the individual grapes before the whole clusters are pressed. When using this style of fermentation, the Gamay is softened and releases floral notes of peony, violet, and iris.
Flavors
No matter what method you choose to produce your wine, different flavors are made present in the final product. With whole cluster fermentation, you can get the following flavors:
Fresh Green
Think of living plants – yeah, the ones that are still wet and filled with chlorophyll. Some of the flavor profiles that can come from this are:
- Grassy: alfalfa bales, pulled weeds, poor quality weed, green tea
- Herbaceous: wintergreen, fresh oregano, dill, fresh thyme
- Vegetal: green bell pepper, jalapeno, brassica stalk
Dried Green
When it comes to this flavor, forget the veggies. Instead, think of the pungency that comes from dried or roasted herbs.
- Resinous herbs: roasted thyme, rubbed sage, herbes de provence, dried mint, juniper
Green-brown
Some of the most intriguing and delicious contributions that come from fermenting whole cluster can be found in this category. The aspects of “dried green” flavors can often coexist with green-brown flavors but green-brown ones are the sexy, resinous kind of earthiness.
- Spicy: nutmeg, cinnamon stick, cardamom, incense, green peppercorn
- Woody: sandalwood, palo santo, rosewood, cigar box, black tea
Whole cluster fermentation is a technique that has proven itself as a remarkable and innovative approach to winemaking. By incorporating grape stems into the fermentation process, winemakers are able to craft wines with unique flavor profiles, enhanced aromatics, and a sense of terroir that truly captures that essence of the vineyard. This method is not without its challenges and requires careful consideration and expertise, but the results can be truly extraordinary. As we continue to explore and experiment with winemaking techniques, whole cluster fermentation stands as a testament to the artistry and creativity that make the world of wine so endlessly fascinating. Whether you’re a seasoned enthusiast or just beginning to explore the world of wine, tasting a bottle crafted through this method can provide a truly distinctive and memorable experience.
